Wednesday, 24 May 2017

KILIMO BORA PATO BORA

  • Tikitimaji lililoasirika na Ubwiru juu (Powdery mildew )  ikiwa katika aina ya umwagiliaji wa Drip Irrigation (matone)

          Dalili za huu ungonjwa...utaona majani yanakuwa kama yamemwagiwa unga ua majivu
         Tiba yake
         Tafuta dawa yenye kiambato...Difenoconazole ..kama vile Score.


 Uunganishaji wa mipira ya Drip irrigation katika shamba la Nyanya 


 Filter ya Drip irrigation ni matenngenezo ya kusafisha ili kutoa uchafu.
 Kitaru bora cha nyanya aina ya Kilele nyenye pato kubwa kikiwa kimeezekwa ili kuepusha jua kali kuchoma miche ya nyanya.

  •  Haya ni matibabu ya Nguluwe nya minyoo ambayo huchomwa kati ya ngozi na nyama kwa dawa ya Ivermectin, (Anthelmintics) ni kundi la dawa ya minyoo kama >Nitroxinil hii ni dawa ya minyoo inayotibu minyoo aina ya Fascioliasis (mature and immature Fasciola hepatica)katika wanyama Ng'ombe,Kondoo na Mbuzi Pia kuna Ivermectin hii ni dawa ambayo hutibu minyoo ya Ndani na Nje (External and internal parasites in Cattle,Sheep,Goat,Pig,and Camel.                                                                                          Alafu kuna dawa ya Levamisole HCL pia ni ya minyoo ila ina chomwa kwenye nyama (intramuscular injection)












  •  Matibabu ya Iron madini chuma kwa Nguluwe wakiwa na siku tatu baada ya kuzaliwa ni mls 2 kwa kila kitoto cha nguluwe.


Kifaa cha kupimia Udongo (pH soil measure). 

CABBAGE PRODUCTION


Cabbage belongs to the crucifer family and is a cool season plant; however it can be grown all year round.
ENVIRONMENTAL REQUIREMENTS
·         The optimum temperatures for cabbage production range from 15ºC to 20ºC with minimum temperatures as low as 0ºC.
·         Cabbage can handle mild frost but temperatures below –10ºC can cause blind heads to be formed.
·         Higher temperatures and moisture experienced in summer can lead to higher incidence of black rot and club root.
·         The growing period for winter cabbage is approximately 120 days and summer cabbage takes approximately 80 days.
 CABBAGE CULTIVAR CHOICE
There are many factors that determine cabbage cultivar choice. These can vary from the time of year you wish to plant, to the type of market you will be supplying. The size and shape of cabbage also varies according to the variety. Consult your nurseryman for specific details on different varieties. This can either be local varieties or hybrids, or improved varieties.
 CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS
v  Cabbage thrives best during the cooler periods of the growing season.
v  Although the optimal temperature range of Cabbage development is between 13 and 15 °C, certain cultivars tolerate the higher temperatures of midseason providing there is ample soil moisture.
v  Other cultivars which mature during midseason may readily bolt. Late-growing Cabbage can withstand light frosts in the fall, although alternate freezing and thawing may damage leaf tissue.
 SOIL CONDITIONSSoils which possess good structure, fertility and water-holding capacity usually produce a satisfactory crop of Chinese cabbage.Cabbage will grow on soils which have pH values from 5.5 to 7.6, although the ideal pH for growth is near neutral (7.0).  CROP PRODUCTION, TILLAGE
v  As a general rule the number of land operations should be kept to a minimum.
v  The previous crop should be ploughed in followed by ripping (very sandy soils – once a year, soils with clay 20% need only be ripped once every 2 – 3 years) After ripping the land should be ploughed, fertilizer spread, disced and then draw lines with a harrow or some sort of tine implement.
v  To maintain and reduce deterioration of soil structure, at least 5 tons of chicken litter or pig manure can be ploughed in.
FERTILISATIONAs a general rule, complete soil analysis should be done before planting to determine your specific soil requirements. A good general recommendation is as follows:·         N = 150 to 200 kg.ha-1. 70 to 90 kg.ha-1 incorporated pre plant.
·         P = 50 kg.ha-1 incorporated pre plant
·         N = 120 kg.ha-1 incorporated pre plant
The soil pH should be approximately 6 – 6.8SPACING AND PLANT POPULATIONSCabbage plant populations vary according to the target market for that particular crop.The ideal plant population per ha-1 for a crop destined for the bagging market would be40000 – 45 000 plants. This would produce firm heads with an average head mass of 2 – 2.5kg. This would produce larger and heavier heads with an average mass of 2.5 – 3kg.SPACINGThe most popular spacing for cabbage production is 50 cm to 50cm in the row (plant to plant) and, 60 cm to 60cm between the rows. A staggered planting regime is recommended to reduce competition between plants.                                                Staggered Planting TRANSPLANTINGv  The soil should be irrigated before transplanting so as to reduce plant stress.
v  Cutworm sprays and herbicides can be applied pre-= or post-planting depending on the farmers preference.
v  When planting a hole should be made with a sharp tool or stake.
v  The seedling must be placed upright in the hole.
Depth sizeThe hole must be deep enough to allow at least 2 ½ cm of soil to cover the top of the plug. The plug should be covered with soil and tamped down carefully by hand so as not to damage the seedling.CROP ROTATIONGood crop rotation is one of the most important aids to intensive vegetable production. There are many different reasons for crop rotation, the most important being the reduction of carry-over effects of diseases and pests from previous crops.In general the following principles apply:·         Alternate deep and shallow rooted crops
·         Alternate crops supplying organic matter with those that utilize
·         Vegetables should be grown in rotation with field or pasture crops.
·         Never follow up crops of the same family
Beans   → cabbage   → butternut ->   green mieliesDISEASES AND THEIR CONTROLLCabbages are susceptible to a number of bacterial and fungal diseases. Most of the more common problems occur over the summer months where high rainfall is experienced. Some cabbage varieties offer disease resistances against specific problems such as1.      Black rot and Black leg.
There is however no chemicals registered for the control of Club root.Pest controlØ  For the general control of pests such as Diamond back moth or Loopers,
Ø  A parathyroid can be used. . For more information on available chemicals contact your local chemical supplier.

OKRA PRODUCTION

OKRA (Abelmoschus esculentus)

INTRODUCTION
·         Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. It is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. Okra is also rich in vitamin A and low in calories. The matured Okra produces  Flower color which are either Yellow or White


SOIL TYPE: 
·         Okra grows well in Loamy soil conditions. It also grows well when the area is of full sun shine than in dark places.
·         The pH range for okra production is 6.0 – 6.8.
·         Okra needs well drained soil for proper productions.

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES
·         'Annie Oakley', which takes 52 days to mature and has spineless pods. It grows to about 5 feet tall.
·         'Park's Candelabra branching', which is a base-branching okra plant. This type of branching makes picking easy.
·         'Louisiana Green Velvet' is good for big areas; it is vigorous and its plants grow to be 6 feet tall. It is also smooth and spineless.

PLANTING
·         Okra seeds can be planted to the Nursery or indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks  then transplanting to the field.
·         Also okra can be planted directly to the garden 3 to 4 weeks  before transplanting to the field.
·         If the temperature is too low, make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
NOTE.
If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.

Planting depth
Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about 1.5-1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.

SPACING
·         If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 - 2 feet apart (from plant to plant) to give them ample room to grow.
·         Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 - 4 feet apart. (from row to row)
       WEED MANAGEMENTS and ferltilization.
   Weed managements in Okra is always done through Mulching.
·        Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (1/2 pound per 25 feet of row).
·        You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly.

THINNING
·        When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
·        Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
·        After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
PESTS
·         Aphids
·         Corn earworms
·         Stinkbugs
·         Fusarium wilt

OKRA HARVEST/STORAGE
·         The first harvest will be ready about 2 months after planting.
·         Harvest the okra (fruits) when it’s about 2 to 3 inches long.
·         Harvest it every day.
·         Cut the stem just above the cap with a knife; if the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be tossed.
·         Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the okra because most varieties are covered with tiny spines that will irritate your skin, unless you have a spineless variety.
·         Do not worry: this irritation will not happen when you eat them.
    STORAGE
·         To store okra, put the uncut and uncooked pods into freezer bags and keep them in the freezer.

·         You can then prepare the okra any way you like throughout the winter months.

WATERMELON PRODUCTION


WATERMELON (Citrullus lanatus)
Introduction
Watermelons need warm temperatures (up to 80 degrees during the day) and a long growing season. Gardeners in colder climates can still have success in growing watermelon by starting seeds indoors and choosing short-season varieties. Days to maturity range from 70 to 90, depending on the variety.

Bottom of Form
Soil type:
·         The crop grows well in sandy soils. In Tanzania water melons grow well in coastal regions like, Pwani, Dar es Salaam, Morogoro, Mtwara, and Lindi
·         Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6 and 6.8.
·         Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer.
·         Amend soil with aged manure or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders.
·         Watermelons like loamy, well-drained soil.
Recommended Varieties
·         Sugar Baby’ 80 days to maturity. Produces 10-pound melons with bright red flesh. This variety of smaller fruit can be planted just 4 feet apart.
·         Sweet Beauty’ 80 days to maturity. A 2004 All-America Selection. Bears 6-pound, oblong melons with red flesh.
·         Golden Midget’ 70 days to maturity. Bears petite, yellow-skinned 3-pound melons with pink flesh. Good for Northern gardeners.

Planting
·         If you live in warmer climes, you can direct sow seeds outdoors, but wait until the soil temperature warms to at least 70 degrees to avoid poor germination.
·         Watermelon vines are very tender and should not be transplanted until all danger of frost has passed. (To be safe, wait at least two weeks past your last frost date.)
·         If you are in a cooler zone, start seeds indoors about a month before transplanting

Spacing
·         If you're growing in rows, space 6 feet apart by 6 feet apart
     Space the plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill. 
·         Handle them gently when you transplant. 
·         After you transplant, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. You'll remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine.


Care
·         Mulching with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth and keep developing fruits clean.
·         While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Water at the vine's base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit are growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.
·         Pruning isn't necessary, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it's a challenge to kill off a potential fruit!).
·         Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
·         Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees! 
·         As fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting some cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.
Pests.
·         Aphids
·         Cucumber Beetles
·         Squash Vine Borer Moths
·         Fusarium Wilt
Harvest/Storage
Watermelons don’t sweeten after they are picked, so harvest time is important. They generally ripen over two weeks so keep your eye on them.
·         Thump it. If the watermelon sounds hollow, it's ripe.
·         Look at the color on the top. The watermelon is ripe when there is little contrast between the stripes.
·         Look at the color on the bottom. A green watermelon will have a white bottom; a ripe melon will have a cream- or yellow-colored bottom.
·         Press on it. If the watermelon sounds like it gives a little, it's ripe. (Rhodes doesn't like this method because it can ruin the quality of the fruit.)
·         Check the tendril. If it's green, wait. If it’s half-dead, the watermelon is nearly ripe or ripe. If the tendril is fully dead, it's ripe or overripe; it’s not going to get any riper, so you might as well pick!
·         Stems should be cut with a sharp knife close to the fruit.
·         Watermelons can be stored uncut for about 10 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 4 days. Wrap tightly in plastic.




 Prepared by
Agriculture Field Officer
Mr Faraja Israel Lwoga





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KILIMO CHA MAHINDI

MAHINDI Mahindi ni zao muhimu sana katika kilimo hapa nchini na hukuzwa na takribani 70 % ya wakulima wa hapa Tanzania. Maeneo yanayoongo...